We set off early for Nikko. Only a 2 hour drive, we went directly to the carpark for the Shrines. Our first port of call took us through Shoyuen Gardens opposite Rinnoji Temple. Shoyuen is a small traditional garden in typical Japanese style, with trees sprouting new green leaves under carpeted with hostas, azaleas, ferns, irises and other low growing plants. The conifers were as usual trimmed into neat topiary shapes.
Shoyuen Garden - Nikko
As Rinnoji Temple is undergoing renovations we had a very quick look then walked on through the Tori gate of the Nikko Toshogu Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We wandered through beautiful forest up the "Sei-chu."….. the long pathway lined with stonewalls sprouting delicate ferns, leading to the Togoshu Shrine. It is apparently etiquette to walk to the side not the middle of the Sei-chu.
Beautiful Nikko
“Shrines, Waterfalls, Lakes, Gardens “
"Sei-Chu" or Walkway to Togoshu Shrine, Nikko
Having visited many shrines in Japan this one was a real surprise .The Toshogu Shrine and buildings were all very colourful with beautiful handcarved animals and birds in rich turquoise blues, yellow, orange, with dark red the main background colour of the buildings, and a lot of gold decoration. These depictions were often the interpretations of animals not seen live by the carver, but based on descriptions by others. In light of this it was interesting to see how like the real animals many of the carvings were.
 Tori Gate - Togoshu Shrine  Togoshu Shrine – Nikko |  Five Story Pagoda - Togoshu Shrine  Looking through Tori Gate to Sei-Chu and Side Path to Futurasan Shrine |
Exploring the Shrine and grounds, we went up and down stairs, shoes off for inside the temples, washing hands at the trough where a gentle stream of water runs from a bamboo nozzle and small cups on long handles are provided for visitors to scoop up some water , and pour it over their hands to cleanse them before entering the shrine. This should be the left hand pouring water over the right hand first, then reversing hands and finally scooping some water into your mouth with your hand...never drinking from the cup.
Purification Trough - Togoshu Shrine
The buildings were spread out and a long roadway lead to Futarasan Shrine... a smaller shrine and buildings, with a picturesque small garden you can pay 200 yen to visit, and a restaurant below, where we had a basic noodle meal.
 Futurasan Shrine – Nikko |  Nikko Kamijinko Shoro |
We went on to look at Niten Gate and last but certainly not least was Taiiyuan temple.It is based on the Toshogu Shrine of Iemitsu's grandfather's tomb.
It took us a good three hours or more to have a really good look at everything. I think Nikko will go down as some of my favourite Japanese shrines and I highly recommend taking some time to go to Nikko if you are visiting Tokyo.
It took us a good three hours or more to have a really good look at everything. I think Nikko will go down as some of my favourite Japanese shrines and I highly recommend taking some time to go to Nikko if you are visiting Tokyo.
Kegon Waterfalls and Hotel on Lake Chuzenji
Looking down on Kegon Waterfall
Leaving the Shrine we stopped to view Kegon Waterfall which is near the main Chuzenji bus stop. and can be viewed from above for free. This impressive waterfall has a 97 meter drop. You can catch an elevator to the bottom of the Fall for 530 Yen return or view from the platform above which is no charge.
I hadn’t done too much research….so it was a lovely surprise to find our hotel was nestled into a corner of Lake Chuzenji with lovely views to snow tipped mountains and mist hovering over the lake . Fishermen were up to their knees in the water, and hotels and chalet style accommodation hugged the lake edge.
Rowan, Tomoko, and Brian enjoyed an onsen in the hotel. We then went to the dining room for the set dinner. Rowan and Tomoko were in the hotel yukata and jackets provided.....which we hadn’t realised was the usual practice. It certainly makes dressing for dinner easy!
The meal was absolutely superb. Dish after dish came out beautifully and artistically presented. Small morsels of all kinds of fish, vegetables, salad, soup, pickles many of which we had never tasted before. Small pottery dishes are important for presentation of Japanese cuisine. But they also used leaves, flowers and tiny bamboo mats......each a work of art in its own right. We washed it down with some delicious chardonnay....not so traditional.
Breakfast was another taste sensation with fish, sausage, egg, soup, salad, cheese, rice of course with everything, and a choice of juice, tea or coffee.
I hadn’t done too much research….so it was a lovely surprise to find our hotel was nestled into a corner of Lake Chuzenji with lovely views to snow tipped mountains and mist hovering over the lake . Fishermen were up to their knees in the water, and hotels and chalet style accommodation hugged the lake edge.
Rowan, Tomoko, and Brian enjoyed an onsen in the hotel. We then went to the dining room for the set dinner. Rowan and Tomoko were in the hotel yukata and jackets provided.....which we hadn’t realised was the usual practice. It certainly makes dressing for dinner easy!
The meal was absolutely superb. Dish after dish came out beautifully and artistically presented. Small morsels of all kinds of fish, vegetables, salad, soup, pickles many of which we had never tasted before. Small pottery dishes are important for presentation of Japanese cuisine. But they also used leaves, flowers and tiny bamboo mats......each a work of art in its own right. We washed it down with some delicious chardonnay....not so traditional.
Breakfast was another taste sensation with fish, sausage, egg, soup, salad, cheese, rice of course with everything, and a choice of juice, tea or coffee.
Our Hotel by Lake Chuzenji
Cruise on Lake Chuzenji
Well satiated, we wandered down to the lake for the cruise R and T had booked. This was a really enjoyable, relaxing morning. I loved the trees which were a mix of dark green conifers, and the light green new growth, along with medium green broad leafed trees which all melded in with the green of the lake. Fisherman were all around the edges trying their luck, knee deep in the cold mountain water. There was still a good smattering of snow on the mountains, and mist hovered in parts....very pretty. I am always amused by the colourful plastic swans on the lakes in Japan, where visitors can pedal their way around the lakes edge.
Fishermen - Nikko
Lunch was at a small, wooden lakeside chalet. Very tasty golden curry and rice finishing with coffee and a rich chocolate slice to share.
More Nikko Waterfalls
After lunch we were in for another surprise. The Nikko waterfalls! Yudaki Falls are located just 10 minutes from the bottom of Lake Yunoko. These spectacular falls tumble down a long fairly smooth gently sloped rock face, and you can walk up the side of the falls to the top.Note the fisherman at the base. Do fish really swim here?
Yudaki Waterfall - Nikko
Ryuzu Waterfall is a gentler slope, but also very beautiful with trees in autumn colours and azaleas in flower. You can also walk up the side of the falls on a well formed pathway to the road above.
Ryuzu Falls Nikko - Viewing from the Path
Ryuzu Waterfall - Nikko
Heading home via the mountains....we climbed up to the snow line where ski resorts, ski tows and all things skiing related were the main scenery in amongst the natural growth. The road was windy and very scenic. We gradually descended through villages with well tended vegetable gardens with rows of beans and vegetables, flowers and in some parts, rice paddies. Arts and crafts shops were also prevalent.
Eventually, it was onto the motorway and back into Tokyo.
Eventually, it was onto the motorway and back into Tokyo.
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