But despite the long drive it was a wonderful leg of our trip. The scenery changed frequently....from desert to plain barren, then suddenly we rounded a corner and a beautiful lake came into view. We would travel via the towns of Midelt, Afrou, Ifrane , Sefrou over part of the high and mid Atlas Mountains then through to Fez.
It is 466 kms from Merzouga to Fez so we have a long day of driving ahead. It was to take around 7 to 8 hours.
But despite the long drive it was a wonderful leg of our trip. The scenery changed frequently....from desert to plain barren, then suddenly we rounded a corner and a beautiful lake came into view. We would travel via the towns of Midelt, Afrou, Ifrane , Sefrou over part of the high and mid Atlas Mountains then through to Fez.
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We had a good breakfast on the terrace and reluctantly left for the drive to Erg Chebbi . ....the Moroccan Sahara Desert Sand Dunes. There are actually two Ergs, the other is Erg Chigaga. Erg Chebbi is around 150 meters high. First we spent some time in the Gorge taking photos and enjoying it without the crowds. We have been looking forward to our night in the Sahara Desert. For me it will bring back memories of a fortnight camped in the Sahara desert outside Tamanrasset in Algeria, back in 1973. This days drive was an ever changing mix of the gorge with lovely greenery from gardens and date palms, and mud villages turning to barren black desert, and finally changing to more like mulga. While the landscape was changing all the time it was barren and not that interesting except in bursts when a village popped up. We pretty much bypassed Erhoud having missed the turn and had to return 19 kms We were staying at Auberge La Source at Haissi Beidi which is 3 kilometers before Merzouga. Worried about the last bit where all the reading matter suggested problems following poles in the desert and unsealed poor roads, we were very thrilled to find the whole road sealed right to the door. We had worried for nothing ! Brian was also fretting about the whirligigs that swept across in front of us .....typical of the desert. So it was a relief to get there. Auberge La Source - Hassi Labied near Merzouga Our accommodation Auberge La Source looks directly over the desert to the dunes which are a glorious red brown. We’re looking forward to the camel ride before dinner tonight.
The place is spacious, plain, but has everything we need including air conditioning.....and wifi which we haven’t had the last 2 nights. The price includes dinner, bed and breakfast . We were greeted with a freshly squeezed orange juice which was most welcome in the 47oC heat.Brian was able to check local temperatures on his phone. We relaxed in the shade until it was time for our long awaited camel ride. We set off around 9.00am for Todra Gorge in the eastern part of the High Atlas Mountains . We went through Quarzazate. Built by the French in the 1920's for the Film industry it is a very modern town which was a little strange after leaving Ait Ben Haddou.....one of the oldest Kasbahs in the country. You can take a tour of the Film Studio but we decided we didn't have time to stop. We came to a village where washing day was keeping some women busy down by the river.The bridge made a handy clothesline. We bought bottled water at a shop and I was surprised to see the water well was right outside the shop. It was just desert and very barren until we turned off to Dades Gorge and drove through a series of villages until eventually we came to hills of strange rock formations which were constantly changing and quite fascinating. Drive to Dades Gorge Arriving in Ait Ben Haddou township ...we had some trouble finding Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou. Signs are few and far between. We were to find this a difficulty all around Morocco. We were directed back to a hotel in a side park. They kindly rang our hosts, who arrived on motorbikes from across the river. Marita and Ell had stayed here in January and had to wade across knee deep water , but being summer the river was dry. A brother arrived with donkeys to carry our bags across. Meanwhile we were picking our way across the stony riverbed looking for the door under the stalk......as directed. The stalk was sitting in a huge nest on the chimney with its baby. This seemed to be common in the area, as we noticed many more stalks in their nests sitting on top of the chimneypots or towers on kasbahs around Quazazate.
This Kasbah is over 1,000 years old and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. The town has grown up to support the industry the Kasbah has brought to the area. Beware of Tricksters Next morning Marwen took us to the airport to pick up the rental car. Oh dear….we got done! As we left the carpark an old man wearing a djilabah and cap on a motorbike, offered to show us the petrol station as you get the car with only a quarter full tank of petrol. We realise now this is probably part of the ploy?! Impressed with his helpfulness we followed him to the petrol station. He then assured us it would be better to take a different route to our turn off as the main road was teaming with traffic. Now while it was a concern finding the correct roundabout that would take us out of Marrakech, we had a fair idea where to go....and didn,t really need his help.
But Brian feeling a little nervous just starting to drive in this hectic city readily agreed. Bad move! We were taken a back route and as we became more and more suspicious… had no way of turning back as we had no idea where we were. Arriving at the turn off, he then came on strong wanting 10 Euros for his efforts! What! That is huge money in this country! We should.not have relented! We put it down to a learning experience. After a good nights sleep.....although we found the rooms a little hot because you need to shut the shutters for privacy, we were ready to attack the Medina and Souk after a delicious breakfast upstairs on a balcony overlooking the courtyard. Yoghurt, fresh fruit, muffins, fresh bread, and really good coffee set us up for the morning. Our hosts Merwan and his Belgian wife took breakfast with us. Merwan gave us a map and instructions.....as finding our way to the Square is a little like doing a maze. I think he fully expected we might get lost…..and of course we did! We got a small way and then in time found we had made a wrong turn at the vegetable market. Actually we took the alternate route because a man got aggressive because I was taking a photo....and wanted to charge....even though it wasn,t him I was photographing!
Our plane was late into Marrakech, ( note I use the official French spelling - although Marrakesh is also correct ), but our host was waiting patiently and we were soon whisked of into the city. We saw the first signs of what was to become a familiar sight.....the expanses of red pink plastered walls with holes dotted around. I assume for expansion and contraction.....but who knows? Maybe it is just decoration. The rich green of palm trees and parks punctuate the pink scene.There is a sea of sky dishes atop the buildings!PEBGXPWPJJ9N
We drove to Oxford and had a bit of a problem getting close to the bus station. From our experience it is not wise to try and drive into the bus station to drop off bags like we did! We had a major problem getting out without being squashed by buses, cars, bikes and people just squeezing through. Oxford Bus Station was not traveller friendly! We eventually managed to get out without any scrapes and luckily found a carpark nearby where we pulled in and unloaded my gear. Oxford carparks have horrendous fees! I took my bags and waited while Brian returned the car to the rental place by the train station and walked back to the bus station. We were soon on the 2.00 pm bus as planned, and arrived at Heathrow by 3.30 pm. It was just a hop, step and jump to the free bus to our hotel.....the .....Arora International Heathrow Hotel ......not to be confused with the Arora Hotel next to the Sofitel Hotel at Terminal 5! See Arora International Heathrow Hotel West Drayton London for more information Do Your Homework When Booking a Hotel Choosing a hotel required more thought and research than I expected. It depends on which Terminal your flight leaves from which hotel is best for you. The public transport is tricky. Apparently the City Council will not let the hotels provide courtesy buses door to door any more. You must use their buses which firstly can actually take quite a long time and are not necessarily frequent from reading forums and the experiences of others. They are also quite expensive. The Hoppa buses cost around 4 pounds per person.
We left Shrewesbury for Ironbridge Gorge half an hour away, just as the rain set in. This bridge was the catalyst for the Industrial Revolution as three generations of the Darby family devised a way to use coke rather than coal for smelting iron ore to build the bridge initially....but this led to bigger things and the whole area was a thriving area for cast iron, pottery and Coalport pottery was nearby etc The bridge was interesting....though a little smaller than I expected. We walked across to the Toll House and got lovely views down the Severn River. There are 10 museums to choose from and we went into Engenuity first which personally I would skip given the choice again, as you get better information and displays in some of the other museums. The Coalbrookedale Museum of Iron was excellent with many displays both inside and out showing the development of the iron industry. We also visited two restored Darby houses used by the families. We arrived in Shrewsbury in Shropshire, to slightly rainy weather. Being tired we just had what we could muster in our room at Sydney House B&B for a meal.
We were at the top of the house again.....oh those stairs! Breakfast was the usual English cooked breakfast along with fruit and cereal. The host was very nice. He had been to New Zealand so was keen to chat. We parked in the centre of town and wandered around. Shrewsbury was first built back in the 8th century and a major center for the woollen trade during the middle ages, when cloth from Wales which is only 9 miles away, was sent to be finished off before it was dispatched to London to be sold. It was a beautiful drive today. Leaving Bath we went over the Severn Bridge....6 pounds 40 p …..phew! Then we got onto the minor road that went through Wales and the Wye Valley to Tintern Abby. It is 43 years since I last visited.....and it is still just as spectacular. It is a great pity Henry 8th destroyed it because the Catholic Church would not allow him to divorce! This building was a major engineering feat not just by those days standards but today as well. Much still stands and the stone arches make an impressive facade. I took photographs from every angle it was all so beautiful. Tintern Abbey - Wales There was little signage and we had no map! Marita and Ell had waited patiently and after driving around for 10 minutes we finally found a carpark. Next problem was working out how to pay at the machine. I needed local assistance to work it!
Bath....a World Heritage City, dates back to Roman times when the presence of the only hot springs in Britain made it the perfect place to create a spa town.The Georgian buildings are almost all the honey coloured stone buildings you see in the Cotswolds set on the River Avon We stopped in the Circus and again in The Royal Crescent - a spectacular circular building to ask for directions. Next day we left early for Bath as we were meeting Marita and Ell. Our only stop was at Tintagel. This is a beautiful little town with some very old 16th century buildings. The old Post Office was open with it’s roof rippling from age. Inside there were the low ceilings with wooden struts, stone floors and whitewashed walls. It was a very cosy place. Views of Tintagel Old Post Office We drove back from the Eden Project and out to Marazion .This is a lovely little village near Penzance and from where you go out to St Michaels Mount. Be aware as we weren't until too late that St Michaesl Mount is closed on Saturdays!
You can walk out at low tide across a causeway and a boat plies visitors the short way across when the tide is too high. We awoke to thunder and lightening! Then also found out Mount St Michael is shut on a Saturday. Whaaaaat! It was a pity as the tide was perfect for crossing the causeway. St Micheals had been on the top of Brian’s list of things he wanted to do so he was very disappointed.
We decided to go to the Eden Project. It was a long drive to St Austell .....but we finally arrived. around 11.00am The huge white plastic domes that look a little honeycomb like make an impressive display as you walk down the long driveway, past a selection of plants including feijoas.....a South American fruit we love to eat in New Zealand and rarely seen elsewhere. |
Authors
We, Gail and Brian, have permanently itchy feet .
Our list of travel aspirations never seems to get shorter, despite visiting many fascinating countries over many years. While we have both visited about 100 countries each - not all the same, we look forward to enjoying many more, as we satisfy our "Yen for Travel". Archives
August 2017
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