It is 466 kms from Merzouga to Fez so we have a long day of driving ahead. It was to take around 7 to 8 hours.
But despite the long drive it was a wonderful leg of our trip. The scenery changed frequently....from desert to plain barren, then suddenly we rounded a corner and a beautiful lake came into view. We would travel via the towns of Midelt, Afrou, Ifrane , Sefrou over part of the high and mid Atlas Mountains then through to Fez.
But despite the long drive it was a wonderful leg of our trip. The scenery changed frequently....from desert to plain barren, then suddenly we rounded a corner and a beautiful lake came into view. We would travel via the towns of Midelt, Afrou, Ifrane , Sefrou over part of the high and mid Atlas Mountains then through to Fez.
Ziz Gorge and Atlas Mountains
Driving through the Ziz Gorge was absolutely stunning....the nearest to driving through the Grand Canyon we have ever seen anywhere. ....a mini Grand Canyon but spectacular all the same.The Ziz Wadi or River runs through and you happen on the remains of old Forts built by the French Foreign Legion . They also built the Tunnel-de-Foum-Zabel which accesses the Ziz Gorge from the north.
Date Palm Groves nest in the Ziz Valley....green oases in the red brown of the landscape.
Driving over the Tizi-n-Talremt Pass we descended to a valley through Cedar and Cork Oak Forest with grassed areas spotted with Berber tents and their goats, sheep, horses grazing nearby, and for the first time lots of dogs….big dogs. Noticeable because we had not seen dogs elsewhere in Morocco.
Date Palm Groves nest in the Ziz Valley....green oases in the red brown of the landscape.
Driving over the Tizi-n-Talremt Pass we descended to a valley through Cedar and Cork Oak Forest with grassed areas spotted with Berber tents and their goats, sheep, horses grazing nearby, and for the first time lots of dogs….big dogs. Noticeable because we had not seen dogs elsewhere in Morocco.
Ifrane National Park and Barbary Apes
Eventually it became more horticultural with beautiful fields of poppies and blue flowers used for dyes. Unfortunately we never found places to stop for pics.....on into the Ifrane National Park forest where we enjoyed seeing the Macaque Barbary Apes. There were quite a few of them and one cheeky one kept getting up on the car. People were feeding them so they tend to congregate each end of the forest.
The landscape changed to orchards and more signs of settlement as we came into Ifrane. This is totally European in appearance....it felt was like we had been transported to Switzerland.....and our hostess told us it was based on a Swiss Village because they have snow in Ifrane, The National Park is a UNESCO Heritage site. There were very nicely planted parks and a little lake.
From Ifrane to Fez the houses were generally more European in style.
From Ifrane to Fez the houses were generally more European in style.
Fez - Finding Our B&B
We arrived in Fez and assumed we were on the right road as we headed down a wide main boulevard....with no name that was visible! I wonder why Morocco thinks people…and they rely on tourists, can find their way around with no directions clearly visible!
Eventually we had to stop as the traffic was a nightmare. We had arrived at 6.00 pm so probably peak hour traffic.We hadn’t managed to contact our hostess on her number in the morning……even our hosts tried two different phones to no avail. So we were concerned.
Again we were staying right in the Medina so we knew we had to park outside. The girl we had communication with by email said there was a specific place to park for guests. But how to get there was our issue!
Eventually we had to stop as the traffic was a nightmare. We had arrived at 6.00 pm so probably peak hour traffic.We hadn’t managed to contact our hostess on her number in the morning……even our hosts tried two different phones to no avail. So we were concerned.
Again we were staying right in the Medina so we knew we had to park outside. The girl we had communication with by email said there was a specific place to park for guests. But how to get there was our issue!
I started to get out to ask someone for directions to the hotel where we were to meet Khadija. This guy from a cafe came and asked if we needed some help. He offered for he and his brother to show us on their motorbike....which we know can be a problem having got caught in Marrakech.
I thanked him but said “We don,t pay” and he replied “ There are good people and bad people and we are good people.” He said they were helping us with no payment. So off we went following the two brothers on their motorbike. Even they struggled to find a way through the traffic, and there were some turns they could make but we in a car couldn’t. I could see the brother on the back talking on his mobile phone as we manoeuvred our way through the total shamozzle of traffic going in every direction…..and no one willing to give up any ground. The pushiest got through.
Eventually we pulled in behind them at a petrol station where a friend was waiting. Their father works in tourism and they had rung him and he sent this guy Rahid, a qualified tourist guide,who it turned out knew the family who owned the Kasbah we were staying at well. It was arranged he would come with us and the brothers left with a wave. They will never know how grateful we were and would love to have had an address to send them some rugby paraphernalia.
I thanked him but said “We don,t pay” and he replied “ There are good people and bad people and we are good people.” He said they were helping us with no payment. So off we went following the two brothers on their motorbike. Even they struggled to find a way through the traffic, and there were some turns they could make but we in a car couldn’t. I could see the brother on the back talking on his mobile phone as we manoeuvred our way through the total shamozzle of traffic going in every direction…..and no one willing to give up any ground. The pushiest got through.
Eventually we pulled in behind them at a petrol station where a friend was waiting. Their father works in tourism and they had rung him and he sent this guy Rahid, a qualified tourist guide,who it turned out knew the family who owned the Kasbah we were staying at well. It was arranged he would come with us and the brothers left with a wave. They will never know how grateful we were and would love to have had an address to send them some rugby paraphernalia.
Rahid was amused and told us the boys helped us because we were New Zealanders. Apparently the brother is in the Moroccoan Rugby team and idolizes the All Blacks….our national team. So they told Rahid….New Zealanders are good people! Our thanks to the All Blacks.
In the car Rahid rang our accommodation Dar El Ouedghiri , and after a couple of attempts managed to get through. Had he not rung for us I doubt we would have got there as Khadija’s phone was definitely not working. Khadija the daughter, seems to do most of the contact as her mother doesn,t speak English. She is 21 and in her 4th year of Medical school. Her father died a few years ago apparently and she and her mother found the house quiet, so now do the B &B.
She met us at the carpark and we wheeled our luggage through the Medina alleys to the house, really relieved to have found our way.
The house is beautiful having been recently renovated....... like many ......several stories high so lots of steps. We had dinner up on the terrace which overlooks the whole city. It was very cool.....almost cold after yesterday’s temperature of 47oC!
We were so looking forward to a good nights sleep!
In the car Rahid rang our accommodation Dar El Ouedghiri , and after a couple of attempts managed to get through. Had he not rung for us I doubt we would have got there as Khadija’s phone was definitely not working. Khadija the daughter, seems to do most of the contact as her mother doesn,t speak English. She is 21 and in her 4th year of Medical school. Her father died a few years ago apparently and she and her mother found the house quiet, so now do the B &B.
She met us at the carpark and we wheeled our luggage through the Medina alleys to the house, really relieved to have found our way.
The house is beautiful having been recently renovated....... like many ......several stories high so lots of steps. We had dinner up on the terrace which overlooks the whole city. It was very cool.....almost cold after yesterday’s temperature of 47oC!
We were so looking forward to a good nights sleep!
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