Arriving in Ait Ben Haddou township ...we had some trouble finding Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou. Signs are few and far between. We were to find this a difficulty all around Morocco. We were directed back to a hotel in a side park. They kindly rang our hosts, who arrived on motorbikes from across the river. Marita and Ell had stayed here in January and had to wade across knee deep water , but being summer the river was dry.
A brother arrived with donkeys to carry our bags across. Meanwhile we were picking our way across the stony riverbed looking for the door under the stalk......as directed. The stalk was sitting in a huge nest on the chimney with its baby. This seemed to be common in the area, as we noticed many more stalks in their nests sitting on top of the chimneypots or towers on kasbahs around Quazazate.
This Kasbah is over 1,000 years old and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. The town has grown up to support the industry the Kasbah has brought to the area.
This Kasbah is over 1,000 years old and is a UNESCO Heritage Site. The town has grown up to support the industry the Kasbah has brought to the area.
We climbed the narrow staircase to our room which has no electricity…..candles are set into niches in the walls. This is as authentic as we are likely to experience a traditional Moroccan Kasbah …. but we did have hot water for a shower. The doorways are really low….. Brian saw stars a few times! Of course air conditioning is not a feature either. Windows being just narrow slits don’t let a lot of air in either. From the bathroom window we could look into the was the corral for the goats and cows to munch on their hay and we could hear them bleating away.
Scenes from Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou
Once we had dropped our gear and cooled down with a drink in the courtyard we were taken on a tour of the Kasbah and surrounding area, which was really fascinating. Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou have been the scene of many well known films including "The Gladiator". Although much of the film set had to be removed once filming was finished. In Quazazate there is a big film studio. It is big business for this area
A Tour of the Kasbah
Firstly we went through the old kitchen with a fireplace and numerous pits, pans, tajines and kitchen utensils. Then down to the side looking back at the Kasbah where Jemal’s sister was born . Over a thousand years old …the family lived here until they moved to the village across the river for a more modern existence. In 2005 the brothers started restoring slowly and still have more to do.
Jemal showed us his small museum and shop where he has collections of antique jewellery, and other artifacts. There was an amazing lock and padlock…the wooden lock slotted in, and tiny dowels filled several.notches which turned, for a padlock. He also showed us a traditional formal wedding script written on wood. There were silver holders for scrolls and many other items that have been improved on and are still used today in a modern form.
It was interesting to see many forms of the Agadir Cross similar to one I bought in Agadiz and money beads like I had got in Nigeria (1973) Sadly both were lost when my jewellery box was stolen.
Jemal showed us his small museum and shop where he has collections of antique jewellery, and other artifacts. There was an amazing lock and padlock…the wooden lock slotted in, and tiny dowels filled several.notches which turned, for a padlock. He also showed us a traditional formal wedding script written on wood. There were silver holders for scrolls and many other items that have been improved on and are still used today in a modern form.
It was interesting to see many forms of the Agadir Cross similar to one I bought in Agadiz and money beads like I had got in Nigeria (1973) Sadly both were lost when my jewellery box was stolen.
We then climbed to the very top for some good views over the village to the coloured hills beyond. The landscape is just barren pink, ochre and green dirt. Many of the hills have this intriguing pale green sheen....I didn't really find out what it was. The type of soil in the area I am assuming.
En route to the Look out which gave us great views over the whole Kasbah and surrounds, we stopped at a shop where a young man was creating these fascinating art pieces. He used an invisible chemical to draw the scene – camels, local buildings, palm trees etc Then a blow torch was quickly run over the back of the paper and the chemical slowly turned shades of brown. It was magical watching the picture appear. Brian just had to have some which he did specially for us.
En route to the Look out which gave us great views over the whole Kasbah and surrounds, we stopped at a shop where a young man was creating these fascinating art pieces. He used an invisible chemical to draw the scene – camels, local buildings, palm trees etc Then a blow torch was quickly run over the back of the paper and the chemical slowly turned shades of brown. It was magical watching the picture appear. Brian just had to have some which he did specially for us.
Dinner, Bed and Breakfast
Dinner was cooked by a sister and wife. The wife was very new to the family. Eight weeks earlier the wedding lasted over 4 days. Lucky guests at the Kasbah were invited…..I wish we had been around.
Outside we were seated on low chairs around a table where we enjoyed a tasty Moroccan Salad and couscous which seems to be traditional to the area, with lots of vegetables from their garden, and chicken. This was followed by a refreshing fruit salad.
Jemal explained that the traditional couscous was a major part of the wedding meal.
Night was a bit restless .....it was so hot. We eventually decided to open one small, window for the breeze which helped.
Breakfast was on a side deck, overlooking the village and riverbed. Traditional light pancakes and bread with a selection of jams including a caramel like smooth paste made from sweet potato.I love the mini tajines for the jams and preserves.
Visiting Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou has definitely been a highlight of our Moroccan Experience!
Outside we were seated on low chairs around a table where we enjoyed a tasty Moroccan Salad and couscous which seems to be traditional to the area, with lots of vegetables from their garden, and chicken. This was followed by a refreshing fruit salad.
Jemal explained that the traditional couscous was a major part of the wedding meal.
Night was a bit restless .....it was so hot. We eventually decided to open one small, window for the breeze which helped.
Breakfast was on a side deck, overlooking the village and riverbed. Traditional light pancakes and bread with a selection of jams including a caramel like smooth paste made from sweet potato.I love the mini tajines for the jams and preserves.
Visiting Kasbah Ait Ben Haddou has definitely been a highlight of our Moroccan Experience!
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