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Chefchouen  Beautiful Blue Town

1/22/2014

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Chefchouen was everything we had hoped. Charming, heaps of character and just so beautiful with  shades of cornflower blue, cobalt blue, electric blue, aqua blue, turquoise all blended onto walls, doors, and walls inside and out, which was both refreshing and gorgeous. In interiors bright shocking pink was a popular contrast to the blue.

Hotel Kortubia was easy to find...the beauty of staying in a small place. We were able to park just outside the Medina entrance by a hotel.This is a small Medina compared to Fez or Marrakech. Our host Omar an ex science teacher, had returned to Chefchouen where his wife was born, to run a B&B as a way to meet people from around the world since he couldn,t afford to travel the world himself. His delightful daughter studying engineering spoke excellent English and will be studying in France for a few months in the new semester. Omar was extremely helpful with restaurant suggestions, things to see etc

Hotel Kortubia - Recommended

We weren't going to have time to visit Ras el Maa the waterfall, or hike in the Rif mountains behind the town, but I still wanted to see it which is why we made the long trip from Fez before heading south to Essaouira.

Like the rest of the Rif Mountain area cannabis is prolific here, yet we didn't really detect any overt signs of it....maybe being older has it's advantages!

Place Uta El Hammam

After  we had deposited our bags and had a look at the view from the bedroom balcony, we went back to Place Uta El Hammam ....the center of the Old Town.  We found a restaurant recommended by Omar and enjoyed watching the crowds as we looked across to the Kasbah and Museum as we ate our lunch -
Tropical fruit salad with corn off the cob mixed in yoghurt. A rather unusual mixture but really nice and refreshing for a change.

A little further down we could see the minaret for the Grand Mosque with it's distinctive octagonal minaret. We won't be able to visit as we are not Muslim.

Replete, we went into the  Kasbah which was originally a fortress.  Downstairs is a Museum and you can climb the stairs to the roof for wonderful  views over the town . This is the only building in the original honey gold colour. The blue wash was started over 100 years ago. Before that Jews who had moved here after being expelled from Granada in Spain in 1492, first painted the buildings white.

Chefchouen is  officially known as the "white town" but because the blue is so predominant, tourists tend to call it the "blue town".

The Musee Ethnographic is in the same grounds in what was originally the residence. and shows the original traditional features of a Moroccan house, along with :
  • artifacts
  •  pottery,
  • embroidery,
  • armour
  • musical instruments and more.

Come and Wander Around Chefchouen Medina With Us

The Medina

As in all Medinas, you are in something of a maze of narrow alleyways. We wandered up and down steps and stairs or cobbled hills,coming to small squares often with tables and chairs and overhanging grape vines cooling the way.

It was intriguing seeing the daily life of the locals. Tourism is one of their major industries now and in Place Ita El Hammam there were large tour groups, but we didn't see so many tourists wandering the Old Medina Alleys.

Locals rushed by in traditional garb shopping, going to the Mosque - there are eight Mosques in Chefchouen, or pumping water from the well. Maybe some don't have running water?  Teens nattered with friends, children played with nothing in particular and cats wandered lazily.
With over 100 weavers based in Chefchouen it is famous for  red and white striped fabrics which the women of the Jelaba tribe in the Rif mountains wear.

The shops had many interesting products. Bags of colourful dye powders lined a shopfront, while nearby tea was piled high next to trays of terracotta door knobs and what appeared to be crystals or rocks. Everything from rugs, bags, fruit and vegetables to high fashion clothing was crammed into small shops.

Chefchouen is a photographers paradise !

Kasa Hassan Restaurant - Recommended!

We returned to Hotel Kortubia for a rest before dinner at a really lovely restaurant “Kasa Hassan”......Omar says it is the best in town . The meal was both excellent and cheap. Fresh Moroccan mixed salad to start, beef  brochettes which were really tender and succulent for me, and a tajine for Brian followed by lemon tart or peach tart for Brian for dessert.All with great service and a pleasant atmosphere.

We had a wander around the small souk which was more of what we had seen earlier in the day except more to buy if you are so inclined, and then decided it was time to retire.
Chefchouen is a truly delightful place to visit. I wish we had allowed more time. The people were friendly and if you said “No” they  accepted it. Being small you really could enjoy it all with out feeling overcrowded. Maybe that will change.We were there in early mid June.
Picture
Kasa Hassan Restaurant - Unfortunately I felt I should let people eat in peace so the guests are not in the photos.
Picture
There were two levels for diners and this lovely seating area for drinks or coffee.
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    Authors

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    We, Gail and Brian, have permanently itchy feet .
    Our  list of travel aspirations never seems to get shorter, despite visiting many fascinating countries over many years. While we have both visited about 100 countries each - not all the same, we look forward to enjoying many more, as we satisfy our "Yen for Travel".

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